Rue Mouffetard runs down the slope of the Montagne Sainte-Geneviève in the 5th arrondissement, and it is one of the oldest streets in Paris. This narrow, cobbled street began as a Roman road leading south from Lutetia, and today it is still a food street, where locals buy their bread, cheese and vegetables from shopkeepers who know them.
The street runs from Place de la Contrescarpe down to the Church of Saint-Médard. At the lower end, the food shops set their stalls out on the street and turn it into an open-air market. Rue Mouffetard belongs to the neighborhood: come here to shop, not just to photograph.
The Market at the Bottom of the Street
The stalls are busiest in the morning, so come early if you want first pick of the vegetables and a chance to chat with the shopkeepers before the crowds arrive. Each shop sets its own days and hours.
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Start at the top, near Place de la Contrescarpe, and work your way downhill. Cheese shops, bakeries, butchers, fishmongers and greengrocers open their doors and pile their produce out front. You’ll find seasonal French fruit and vegetables in careful pyramids: asparagus in spring, cherries in early summer, wild mushrooms in autumn.
Near the bottom of the street, stop at Androuët, a family cheese house that has been selling cheese in Paris since 1909 and has one of its shops on Rue Mouffetard. The staff will guide you through the regional cheeses and help you choose.
Saint-Médard and Marché Monge
The street ends at the Church of Saint-Médard. In the Middle Ages a church on this old road anchored a small village, the Bourg Saint-Médard, which only became part of Paris in the 18th century. The parish runs regular guided visits of the church; details are on the Saint-Médard parish website.
If you want a full open-air market as well, walk a few minutes west to Place Monge. The Marché Monge is one of the city’s food markets, set up on the square a few mornings a week; the City of Paris page lists its days and hours.
Where to Eat on Rue Mouffetard
The street itself holds dozens of restaurants. Take your time and look at the menus; the side streets are worth a look too.
For a quick lunch, grab a crêpe from one of the stands near Place de la Contrescarpe. The savory buckwheat galettes filled with ham, cheese and egg make a good meal after shopping.
At the top of the street, Café Delmas is a Parisian brasserie on Place de la Contrescarpe, with home-made cooking and a terrace looking onto the fountain. Order a café crème and watch the square go by.
How to Get There and When to Visit
Take métro line 7 to Place Monge or Censier-Daubenton; both stations put you within a few minutes of Rue Mouffetard. From Place Monge, walk along Rue Ortolan to reach Rue Mouffetard.
Visit on a weekend morning if you want the full market experience with crowds and energy. Come on a weekday if you prefer a quieter shopping trip where you can actually talk to the shopkeepers. Each shop keeps its own days, so check before you go.
The street slopes downhill, so start at the top near Place de la Contrescarpe and let gravity help you. Bring your own shopping bag; the regulars all carry their own baskets or totes.
Rue Mouffetard shows you a Paris that still lives by market rhythms and seasonal eating. It’s not a museum of how things used to be; it’s simply how Parisians in this neighborhood continue to shop and eat. Come hungry, carry some small change for the stalls, and take your time.
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Updated October 2026: removed shops and restaurants we could not confirm, removed street numbers and opening times, and added links and photos for each part of the street. Checked October 2026 against Androuët (shop list), the Saint-Médard parish website, the City of Paris (Marché Monge) and the Café Delmas website.
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