Marché des Enfants Rouges: Paris’s Oldest Covered Market

Marché des Enfants Rouges: Paris's Oldest Covered Market
Photo: Eugène Atget / Wikimedia Commons (public domain)

Update, 17 October 2026: the Marché des Enfants Rouges was badly damaged by fire on the night of 11–12 October 2026 and is closed. Check paris.fr for news before you go.

Tucked away on a narrow street in the northern Marais, the Marché des Enfants Rouges fed Parisians from 1615 until the fire of 11–12 October 2026. The oldest covered market in Paris takes its unusual name from the red uniforms worn by orphans at a nearby hospice four centuries ago. Before the fire, it was a busy food hall where traditional French vendors shared space with Italian, Moroccan, Lebanese, and Japanese stalls.

Unlike the tourist-packed food halls that have sprouted across the city, this market stayed local: neighbourhood residents did their weekly shopping alongside visitors.

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What the Market Was Known For

The market was divided roughly into two zones. Around the perimeter, traditional vendors sold what Parisians came here for: seasonal fruits and vegetables, fresh flowers, artisan cheeses, charcuterie, and organic bread. The produce stalls were full of heirloom tomatoes in summer, wild mushrooms in fall, and citrus from Menton in winter.

The center belonged to prepared food stalls with communal seating at wooden tables. Chez Alain Miam Miam served generous plates of Moroccan tagine and couscous. The Italian traiteur offered fresh pasta and lasagna that locals lined up for on Sunday mornings. Le Traiteur Libanais piled plates high with mezze, grilled meats, and fattoush salad. The Japanese stall drew a crowd for bento boxes and crispy gyoza.

Visiting

The market has been closed since the fire. Check paris.fr for news of a reopening before you plan a visit.

Where It Is and What’s Nearby

Take the metro to Filles du Calvaire (line 8) or Temple (line 3). The market entrance is at 39 rue de Bretagne.

The surrounding streets reward exploration. Rue de Bretagne itself hosts excellent food shops including Boulangerie Julien for bread, Fromagerie Laurent Dubois for cheese, and Café Charlot at the corner with rue de Picardie. Walk south on rue de Turenne to reach the heart of the Marais with its museums and boutiques.

The market sits just minutes from Place des Vosges and the Picasso Museum, and the streets around it still make a good part of a day in the northern Marais.

Until It Reopens

We will update this guide when the city announces a reopening. Until then, the Marché d’Aligre in the 12th is the working covered market we send friends to instead.

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