Rue Cler: Paris’s Perfect Market Street

Rue Cler in the 7th arrondissement, Paris: a cobbled market street with shop awnings including Cler Fleurs
Photo: Chabe01 / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)

Rue Cler is a short street in the 7th arrondissement, but its pedestrian stretch, between Avenue de La Motte-Picquet and Rue de Grenelle, shows you why Parisians still shop for food day by day. That southern stretch opened in 1826, and the street took its name in 1864 from General Jean Cler, who died at the Battle of Magenta. Today it is a place where shopkeepers know their regulars and the day follows the rhythm of the food shops.

Unlike the covered markets or the open-air markets that take over a boulevard for a morning, Rue Cler is a permanent market street: food shops, delis and produce stands sit side by side, with their displays out on the pavement. The Eiffel Tower is a short walk away, and you’ll see plenty of locals with their shopping baskets.

The Essential Shops

A fruit and vegetable shop with its stalls out on the pavement of Rue Cler in Paris, under a blue sky
Photo: besopha / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY 2.0)

We like to start at the southern end, by École Militaire métro, and walk north. Cheese shops, butchers and greengrocers line both sides, so take your time and look in every window.

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Davoli is the Italian deli of the street, with Parma hams hanging from the ceiling, fresh pasta, olive oils and balsamic vinegars, plus a counter of prepared dishes that make an easy picnic.

Jeusselin is a family charcuterie and traiteur, known for its foie gras, jambon blanc and prepared dishes. Ask what’s good that day.

Look out for the wine shops along the street too: they’re a good place to pick up a bottle to go with your market purchases. For produce, the fruit and vegetable stands change with the seasons: asparagus in spring, tomatoes in summer, mushrooms in fall.

When to Visit

Each shop sets its own hours and days, so check the official site of the shop you want before you go. We find mid-morning on a weekday the easiest time: the displays are full and the street is calmer.

Saturday mornings bring the biggest crowds, with locals stocking up for the weekend, but also the liveliest atmosphere: shopkeepers calling out their specials, customers discussing cuts of meat, and the smell of roasting chicken from the rotisseries.

The after-work rush in the early evening is busy too. Some of the best items will be gone, and you’ll spend more time queuing than shopping.

How to Shop Like a Local

Shoppers at a produce stall on Rue Cler in Paris, with sliced watermelons and crates of fruit in front
Photo: besopha / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY 2.0)

Bring a shopping bag or basket; arriving with your own marks you as someone who knows the routine. Don’t touch the produce; let the vendor pick items for you. When you approach a cheese counter or butcher, wait your turn and greet the shopkeeper with a polite bonjour. Our guide to Parisian fromagers has more on ordering at a cheese counter.

It’s perfectly fine to buy small quantities. Ask for 100 grams of cheese, two slices of pâté, or a single portion of a prepared dish. If you’re unsure about anything, ask for advice: shopkeepers here take pride in their expertise and like customers who care about quality.

Some coins and small notes make quick buys at the produce stands easier.

Beyond the Market

The busy terrace of the Café du Marché on Rue Cler in Paris in the evening
Photo: 4net / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY 3.0)

The cafés along Rue Cler give you a front-row seat on the market. Café du Marché, right on the pedestrian stretch, is a classic stop for a coffee or a big salad after you’ve finished shopping.

For a sit-down lunch, L’Ami Jean on Rue Malar, a few minutes’ walk north, is where chef Stéphane Jégo cooks generous, seasonal food. The room is small, so check its official site for booking. Or put together a picnic from your market bag and head to the Champ de Mars, a short walk west.

The streets around reward a wander too. Rue de Grenelle crosses Rue Cler at the end of the pedestrian stretch, and Rue Saint-Dominique, at the street’s northern end, is worth a stroll as well.

To reach Rue Cler, take métro line 8 to École Militaire (at the southern end of the street) or to La Tour-Maubourg (closer to the northern end). The RER C station Pont de l’Alma is about a ten-minute walk away.

Updated October 2026: added photos and links for each part of the street. Checked October 2026 against Gault&Millau (Davoli; L’Ami Jean and its chef Stéphane Jégo) and the L’Ami Jean website.

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